I enjoyed the peace after the loud Kabul. Approximately 900 caves surrounded the impressive Buddha-statues. Genghis Khan's warriors destroyed the faces in the 13th century and other barbarians further damaged them in later years. When I saw in 2001 the pictures of their total destruction by the Taliban, I had to cry! What they really looked like, the Chinese monk Xuanzang describes in his writings in the year 632. His search for Buddhist scripts led him on an adventurous journey right up to Bamiyan and he tells of statues covered in gold and adorned with precious jewels. And he was also delighted by a gigantic sleeping Buddha. Measuring 300 meters he was laying at the feet of his brothers.
Hotel Mustafa
Photos by Hans Grimm - 1975
I went through the caves which were connected by corridors to the head of the large Buddha, and felt an incredible energy. In these caves thousands of monks have been meditating for the benefit of all beings. In a cave above the head of the Buddha I admired a fresco. Even if it was very faded, it's still radiated. I sat down. From this view one could see the whole valley, which slowly turned golden red.
I closed my eyes and absorbed the energy of this magic place and before my inner-ear the centuries of mantra-reciting and chanting came to life again. It filled the cave-labyrinth, and the monastery was vibrating by the sound of horns and drums. Pictures of infinite space and a feeling of eternity filled me. And I saw the unharmed golden Buddha. Wearing a red garment and with his eyes of lapis lazuli he guarded the blessed valley.
Golden Buddha
Image by Chris De Bié
OUT OF THE CAVES
When I opened my eyes it was almost dark. Fortunately I had a flashlight and so my way back became a small adventure. In the hotel they've been already concerned about me. Full of gratitude about this experience I fell asleep.
Next morning I started on a day-trip to Band-e-Amir. The 75 km to this gorgeous natural spectacle I travelled in a comfortable Minibus. On an elevation of 3000 meters one is overwhelmed by the 7 lakes that were formed naturally through travertine dams. Due to the different mineral contents and depths of each lake their colours vary from a deep blue over turquoise to a brilliant green. This, one of Nature's miracles that literally takes ones breath away. 'Undescribeably beautiful' is the best description for this.
The next week I spent almost exclusively in the cave monastery. I would have remained longer, but I was not on a pure leisure trip. Strengthened and encouraged in the faith of divine rules and justice I went back to Kabul where I remained for a couple of days. I enjoyed this atmosphere of “Love & Peace”, but was disgusted of all the junkies around. So I bought a ticket to Peshawar. The street from Kabul to Peshawar followed the Kabul River for a great length. The source of the river is close to Kabul and it flows into the Indus River.
